A new Yun Shui Yao has opened behind the Hanting Inn on Moganshan Road, just north of Xinyifang. As where the first restaurant focused on the cuisine of Yunnan, their new location focuses on that of Guizhou. Not knowing the difference between the two, we decided to head out and give it a try. We’re glad we did.
We were greeted by hosts and hostesses clad in traditional Dai minority garb. There’s even a guy playing the lusheng, which sounds like a cross between a pipe organ and a kazoo. The interior, as well, is reminiscent of the region. The rustic, dark wood walls, bamboo ceiling, and tables clothed in colorful, traditionally woven, textiles make one quickly forget they’re even in Hangzhou.
As is all too common, we ordered way too much, but here’s what you should try if you go: the Wild Fungus (Jizongjun) is native to Yunnan and Guizhou and is one of the tastiest standalone fungus dishes we’ve ever had (relax, it’s just mushrooms). The eggplant served mortared with 1,000-year-old egg, cilantro, and mushrooms was also tasty and unique. We had two soups and both were outstanding. If you want a heartier and subtler soup, try the Memories of Lijiang soup which contains in its pumpkin-based broth, pork ribs, meatballs, and a variety of greens, gourds, and vegetables. If you want a spicier soup you’ll have to try the Sour Fish Soup (Suan Tang Yu). The broth itself is a delightfully snappy sour, but the dish is served with a side of spice to dip the tender morsels of fish into. The sour and the spicy meld perfectly with just the right amount of kick. Our two main courses were also winners. The eggplant and minced beef sautéed over hot rocks (Careful. It’s hot.) was an absolute treat, but the pièce de résistance had to be the ribs. Herb-encrusted and served with a side of French fried potatoes, the flavor, tenderness, and sheer completeness of this dish had our canines tingling. We went at it like a pride of lions on a wildebeest.
About halfway through our lunch the same people who greeted us upon arriving had congregated around our table to serenade us with traditional Dai music. The woman singing then went to each male at the table, and with a ram’s horn, poured a very light and tasty rice wine (dongjia mijiu) down our throats. It was so good, we ordered a jug for the table and at a scant 18RMB/jug; we think we found our new summer drink. For great food in a fun and festive atmosphere the whole family can enjoy, give Yunshuiyao a try. Picture menu only. Parking available.