The day we went to Moganshan was a glorious one. With the top down we basked in the sun as we cut northward through the highway, listening to ABBA and longing for Fernando. Getting there is easy. Just head north on Moganshan Road until you hit National 104. On the 104 head towards Deqing for about an hour and you are there. Our destination was the Moganshan Loft which is located at the foot of Mogan Mountain, but we didn't want to waste this beautiful day, so we decided to wander around the mountain. We entered the South Gate and headed for the East Gate (it costs 80RMB/person to get in). Apparently, Mogan Mountain had a really good snow in the last few days and the road was icy. We didn't see many people except for bamboo farmers. When we passed through the little town on the top of the mountain it seemed as though all the restaurants and hostels were closed for the winter. It was so peaceful and quiet. We jokingly commented on how you never see such barren places like this in China, but the lack of people added to the allure of the afternoon. The silence added to the overall tranquillity of Mogan Mountain's scenic spots and the spots that have the best view are the Moganshan Castle (Mo Gan Shan Zhuang莫干山庄) and a pavilion called Xu Guang Tai旭光台. These spots are quite close to each other, so we parked the car and walked. It was freezing but the view was just magnificent. After two hours wandering around, we decided to head to the Moganshan Loft. If you don't want to go through the whole mountain, we suggest you to take the East Gate (dong da men, san qiao东大门三桥). Here you'll see a huge billboard for Moganshan National Park. We stayed in the restaurant behind this billboard for dinner. Remember, small town people have a really early schedule; 5:00 - 8:00PM is dinner time. If you miss it, you will end up going to bed on an empty stomach. We were led to this private pavilion house at 5:30PM and had a feast. We ordered six dishes: Deep Fried Little Fish (zha xia yu炸小鱼), Braised Boar with Chilli (hong shao ye zhu rou红烧野猪肉), Winter Bamboo Fried with Picked Vegetables (dong sun chao xue cai冬笋炒雪菜), Spring Roll (chun juan春卷), Deep Fried Dough with Bamboo Ham Sauce (zha you tiao炸油条) and Tofu Skin Fried with Green Garlic (da suan chao qian zhang大蒜炒千张), and to accompany these wonderful dishes, we drank three bottles of hot yellow wine which is great for chasing away winter's chill. The bill was cheap, only 150 kuai. The town of San Qiao (where we ate) was empty by 6:00PM. There is one tiny supermarket and a few street vendors. The place was a ghost town, the perfect place to shoot a movie like House of Wax, or the 67th instalment of Friday the 13th. Even the bing seller said the ghosts are asleep by 8PM. There's a road called Shiyi Road to the left of the big billboard. It led us straight to the loft. You'll also see a Moganshan Loft sign on the right hand side of the road to help you along the way. This loft is about 50 sq. meters with a balcony facing a reservoir. It's modern d-cor is inviting as is the Coco-mat Mattress. Sitting on the balcony we got out our tripod and camera to take pictures of the beautiful view. On the evening in question there was almost a full moon reflecting off the lake. There was no traffic, people or city noise. It was dead silent and pitch black. All you could hear was your breath. Here people go to bed at 8:00PM and get up at 5:00AM to go to work. There's no TV, no DVDs, no nothing. We brought our own wine, bought some weak beer at the aforementioned little supermarket in San Qiao, had a laptop to play music, some cards and games to play, books and magazines to read, so we weren't too bored at all. The room costs RMB400 per night on weekdays, and RMB500 per night for the weekend. These are winter prices, when spring time comes, this price will surely go up, but it is still a very nice escape from the city. How to get there: If you are driving, you can either head north on Moganshan Road until you hit the National 104, Or you could take the Hangning Highway. The National 104 is toll free but takes longer, the Hangning has tolls but will get you there in under an hour. Upon arriving at Moganshan, we suggest you to take the East Gate. If you take a bus, take the K588 on Miduqiao Road by the White Horse Apartments (bai ma gong yu 白马公寓). It takes about an hour and costs RMB 10. It arrives at the Deqing Bus Station. From there take a taxi. The Moganshan Loft is 15 to 20 minutes away depending on traffic and cab driver. Need more info about the Moganshan Loft, please call Alex at 131 3610 3440 for reservations and directions or visit http://www.moganshanloft.com/index.htm.